This past week we have been heading north on the Rhine/Rhein/Rhin. After leaving Marcus (Phil is typing away at another computer about our stay there) we headed west towards Basel. It took over two days to get there and so we stopped off at two campsites along the river on the way.

This first campsite was fantastic. Very small, the owner – HP – told us that we could buy meat from ALDI (at the top of a RIDICULOUSLY high hill) and he’d light a campfire for us to barbecue on. We did so, and he insisted we try, for free, a bottle of the “best beer in southern Germany”, Rothaus. So, we did, both, before buying a couple more to celebrate our highest mileage in one day so far – 73.73mi.

After a lovely evening, we got off to a good early start but sadly didn’t make it to Basel (the next city we were aiming for) due to various problems with Phil’s bike – see his post for details. Still, we made 55.85mi, so we were happy enough. Before bed on this campsite, it was my (Dom) responsibility to find out Mass times for the morning (the morning being Sunday). Kein Problem – No problem. 10am it said on the board outside the church.

On arriving at the church at 10am there was a sign on the door announcing that on that particular Sunday there was no Mass because they were having an ecumenical communion service in another church in town. Errr – I’ll not comment on that one.

We hadn’t cycled so fast for such a prolonged distance as we did while trying to get to Basel for 11am in the hope we’d find Mass there. We were pointed to the same church again and again on asking for a Catholic church, but Phil and I are sure it wasn’t Catholic. Even one of the men coming out from the church told us it was Catholic, but it didn’t convince us. There was no tabernacle, the layout of the modern style church was with the organ as the central focus, and there appeared to be a ‘vicarette’ – we carried on in our search.

Again with the sprint-cycling. We’d been given directions to another church, but decided to stop – perhaps randomly – at another fairly dull looking church that gave no sign of being the one we were looking for. 11.32am. The notice on the door was in Spanish – a good sign, surely? The people hurrying looked Spanish. On asking a man at the back of the church if it were Catholic, he told me no. But with the church hall being called the ‘Don Bosco’ centre, plus the presence of everything you’d expect, I was sure. Phil checked it out, yep – Roman Catholic enough for us!

So, we made it to Mass. A strange situation – in Switzerland, on the German border, near France, in Spanish Mass. This story probably didn’t deserve as many paragraphs as I just gave it, but it felt like an accomplishment, and we were so glad to have made it. After a late start after Mass, we still managed over 56mi – we were pleased.

The next day brought with it another record mileage, only by a fraction – 74.78mi. But the day after – Tuesday, yesterday – blew that right out of the water. We arrived in Karlsruhe, having been promised there would be a campsite there. Not one, said everyone we asked. Eventually a man with a map pointed to a place called Rühlzeim. Not far, he said. After getting lost several times, the 15mi journey that it should have been turned into at least 20, probably 25mi. But we made it, after help from many people. The one person worth noting actually brought us half way to Rühlzeim, leading us on her bicycle:

This lady was amazing. You wouldn’t expect a lady called Barbara, aged over 60, wearing a long dress and high heels while on a rickety old city bike, who professed to having a bad foot from a dancing accident, to cycle too quickly. Phil and I were struggling to keep up. Average speed for the 10 miles Barbara led us was not below 16mph, across cycle paths, dirt tracks, bridges, through forests – we were amazed. We then met two people on racing bikes who led us the next 10 miles at break-neck speeds. When we eventually arrived at the campsite we had done 85.97 miles – amazing, we were chuffed.

We are now in a town called Worms after another 60 miles along the Rhine. It has an amazing looking cathedral, but the doors are locked (it’s 9.30pm) so we’ve no chance of going in.

We treated ourselves to a McDonalds for dinner and we’re staying in a youth hostel – luxury! – to enjoy what will hopefully be our last night in Europe. – more on that in a minute.

In McDonalds we met a lady, Mrs. Ball, who was very chatty. Eager to chat, she told us about her husband who was from Coventry, her grandson who is 26, fluent in 8 languages, and a minister in church. After a lovely chat, she donated €20 to Youth 2000! Excellent.

So, I’ve written enough. On we go! We’ll write again early next week, I hope. Talk about an essay – 974 words done – hope you’re still awake! I’m afraid there’s no way to connect my camera to these computers, so no photos until the next post.

Thanks yet again to all the contact from home. (Phil’s feeling rather sad. He got a top-up card for his phone from his (lovely) sister Maria, texted about 20 people in one lunch break, and has had one reply so far, I think – and that was from his Mum. So, if you owe him one, I’m sure he’d love to hear from you!)

Please do continue to pray for us – you’re all in our prayers.

We’ll be home soon, please God. Call me crazy, but I’m looking forward to the rain in Wales.

Cofion gorau, Dom

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